Himeji Castle – Ninja Style

One of the places we had been to before that we wanted to return to was Himeji Castle. We wanted to see the large castle and beautiful surrounding parks and gardens on a day without torrential rain like we had the last time we were here. But there was also another, more secret reason to come. We didn’t want to tell a lot of people in case things didn’t turn out well. You see we enrolled Locutus in a day of Ninja School! Since everyone survived we decided we could probably show some pictures.
To even get in to the school you first had to sneak past the guards at the gate. Can you spot Locutus slipping past them without notice?
He was competing against many local kids, most of whom were older than him. They did have a bit of an unfair advantage, but Locutus still out-performed them all. He’s so good at being a ninja that he’s already adept at blending into a crowd unseen.
There was an obstacle course, which he crushed, naturally. If you’ve ever seen how he navigates our house, you’d know that this kind of thing would be a piece of cake for him.

They couldn’t have the kids fighting against each other, so they used fake cardboard ninjas instead. Locutus totally destroyed his foe!
The final challenge was a test of their ability to disappear and become a master of disguise. These pictures will demonstrate just how well Locutus did. See him? Nope, I didn’t think so!

 It was totally awesome!

Eikando II.b

Looking back through our posts about our first trip, I’m realizing that we put very little detail into them. Probably because we were writing at internet cafe’s and visitor info centres and were on a time limit. It was also not possible to really add pictures to those posts, so I’ll throw a few of those in now for you.

On our first trip to Kyoto, we rented bikes the first day we were in the city and tried to find a few places like the Philosopher’s Path.

Finding our way.jpg

Since I’m not a very good cyclist and was in a foul mood after having a run in with a wall (which I can now laugh about, instead of being embarrassed about) we ended up stopping before we found it and went in to the closest available temple. It turned out to be very cool despite the fact that it was under restoration. One of the things we wanted to do this time was find the temple again and see the artwork restored.

Because Lance is an awesome navigator, we actually found the temple quite easily. And discovered we were about 200 metres shy of the Philosopher’s Path when we gave up on our first trip! (But that’s ok as it probably would have done us in had we found it).

The first time through all of this was covered with scaffolding as they worked to bring back the original brilliance of the colours.

The temple also had a couple of other cool things like an awesome bell and the dragon walkway!

Bell - do not ring!.jpgThe dragon walkway.jpg

Souvenir Shopping and other Random Things

I think that with this latest trip, we have officially purchased at least one of every stereotypical Japanese souvenir that exists. Just like Pokemon, you gotta catch ’em all, right? The challenge to you, dear readers, is to name a souvenir in the comments, if you think we haven’t got it yet. Go ahead, I dare you!

We have also finally bought some things for Locutus.  So long as the items are clearly for him, he gets the same duty-free allowance that we do. So I’m trying to carefully keep track of which expenses are going under each person.

Some other random details in a stream of consciousness fashion . . . we’ve finally arrived in Fukuoka for the sumo tournament. Sadly we were too late to get general admission tickets for the first day and we didn’t want to spend $200 for tickets the first day, so we went back to our hotel room in order to watch on tv. It’s going to be strange for us not to have sumo in the background in the evenings during this sumo tournament.

We believe we’ve found a solution to posting photos of Locutus on a public forum. Stay tuned!

Some ‘mommy’ thoughts . . . I’m noticing quite a bit of baby-wearing so far. Mostly it’s soft-sided carriers and lots of Ergo’s – yay! Their Ergo’s seem to be a bit more fancy than ours. Different colours and patterns on the interior so it looks good even when it’s hanging down and the baby isn’t in it. Plus, most of them make extensive use of the hood so it’s always hanging out. Babies are bundled ridiculously, just like their parents are (seriously, toques even if it’s over 10 Celsius!). And I don’t think I’ve seen more that 1 or 2 babies being worn on the back. I guess it’s because Asian babies tend to be so much lighter than their Caucasian counterparts. A lot of people have guessed that Locutus is 2 already, because he walks so well and is so large.

Ok, a messy, stinky diaper is demanding my immediate attention. Good thing we’re in our hotel instead of the sumo stadium!

New Old In Kyoto – Ginkakuji

Kyoto is so chock full of temples and shrines it’s easy to see something new every time you come. I thought I’d do some more detailed posts about some of the new old sites we’re seeing during our time in Kyoto.

We’d seen Kinkakuji (Golden Pavillion) before and this time we really wanted to see Ginkakuji, the Silver Pavillion. The Golden Pavillion was named because it is actually covered in gold leaf (well, I’m not sure if they actually did that for the restoration, but it is gleamingly gold). So you’d think that the Silver Pavillion would be silver, right? Well, you’d be so very, very wrong. I believe it was named thusly to indicate that it was built during the great time after the Golden Pavillion. (Do you sense the innate hierarchy that is so prevalent in Asian culture?).

So we went up to the Silver Pavillion by bus since it is fairly towards the top of the map (which you’d think would be North, but it isn’t.) On the way we got to do a bit of people watching on the bus. The particular route we were on ended in the foothills of the mountains, so when I saw a group of girls wearing parkas and big winter hats and serious looking boots with backpacks, I assumed they were on their way for an outdoor adventure.

The one sitting on the left also had awesome pink moustache earrings.
But they got off in the middle of the city. You see, temperatures between 10-20 Celsius apparently just call for that kind of clothing. Boy do I feel out of place in my t-shirt!
Anyway, the temple itself was gorgeous. It had a few very nice raked sand designs at the beginning and very nice ponds and such to walk around. We let Locutus loose on the path and he practiced going up and down the staircase a dozen times as other tourists admired and commented on how cute he was (you’ll notice this quickly becomes a running theme of this trip). Since word descriptions can’t really do it justice, here are a few photos . . . 

See? Not so silver.

Just like at Golden Pavillion there was a spot where people toss their coins and try to hit a target. It’s for luck, I’m assuming. This time we all faced forward and there were also school boys attempting. And, just like last time, guess who hit it with a definitive ‘click’ on her first try? Oh yeah, that would be me. However, the boys were distracted by the cuteness of my baby so my coin tossing didn’t receive the same chorus of appreciation.

My 10 yen coin is one of the ones on the right of the rock 😉

Incidentally, between Lance and I there are over 500 photos from this day. So, it’ll take a while to sort, edit, upload, etc. There will be some of us uploaded to our Flickr site, though you won’t be able to see ones with Locutus unless you are a friend/family contact on Flickr, or you ask very nicely for an emailed link.

Well…

We walked the Philosophers Path, shopped Kiyomizu-dera twice, talked to three crazy old men, and toured the palace and fortifications of Nijo Castle. Not to mention the fact that Locutus has charmed over 40,000 girls and been an unbelievable trooper the entire time. Our visit to Kyoto is an unqualified success, no doubt about it!

I think…I’ve got it! We’re supposed to blog about it!

What Time Is It?

It’s 4:30. That’s not late! No, it’s early, early, early!

Here we are in a Tokyo hotel room at an entirely too early time of morning. We’re trying everything we can think of to keep Locutus happy and quiet until it’s a more reasonable hour and we can exchange our vouchers for train tickets, get food, and go tour the Imperial Gardens. I was going to try to post some pictures, but the only ones I’ve snapped so far are on my iPhone and the new computer and iPhone aren’t playing too well together yet.

Locutus has made a bunch of new friends already, including one of the flight attendants. He spent take off leaning over the arm rest of his chair and waving back and forth with her, completely oblivious to the fact that the giant metal tube we were speeding along in was leaving terra firma. That was the beginning of a beautiful 10 hour friendship.

Locutus did not need any of the gravol and took to the entire flying experience very well. He spent so much time in each of the galleys on the plane that he now knows where to find extra napkins, chopsticks, and, most importantly, the beer. He was very warm on the plane (as were Lance and I – I think running up and down the aisles helped contribute to this a little) so it wasn’t long before he’d stripped down to a diaper and socks. Even then he was drawn to the very back of the plane where it was refrigerated.

The most confusing part so far has been for the Japanese immigration, customs, and hotel clerks who just don’t understand where the rest of our baggage is. They were all very concerned that we had forgotten something. Luckily, aside from not having a writing instrument for our customs forms, it looks like we did remember everything.

Our hotel was easy to find. Very close to Tokyo station. However, Tokyo station is at least the size of Metrotown and we had to walk from one end to the other first in order to get to the exit next to our hotel. The lobby has a train set of Tokyo in it! The staff even ran over to turn it on for me when I was showing it to Locutus. They also have provided an adorable ‘children’s amenity set’ that has a cute little bag with a children’s wash cloth, kid size slippers, and a toothbrush & paste set. To show his appreciation, our son is helping them arrange the hotel room properly by relocating the waste bin to the middle of the hallway, tv remote to the bathroom floor, and liberally decorating with bits of torn up toilet paper. I’m sure they’ll thank us on the way out!

Weather Forecast

Just in case you were wondering about the kind of weather we’ll be having in Japan while we’re gone, here are a couple of screenshots I took this morning while checking the weather (yes I’m at that vacation prep stage where you check your destination weather every morning too).

Technically we start in Tokyo, but we’re only staying a very short time there. Then it’ll (probably) be on to Kyoto. After that we head to Fukuoka.

These are about ideal weather conditions for us. A bit of rain, cool temperatures, but not too cold. I’ll be able to get away with a t-shirt (& jacket) and Lance is already debating whether he’s even going to bother with a jacket at all.

Japan Trip Beginner’s Mind

There’s a zen concept called ‘Beginner’s Mind.’ It encourages you to look at things as though you are a beginner. To experience the full scope of wonder and newness of things. Part of the experience of parenting is having the opportunity to experience beginner’s mind as you look at the world through the eyes of your child and see them experience things as a true beginner for the first time. And, part of the experience of this trip for Benevolance and I will be watching our son Locutus experience so many things as a beginner. (For those who don’t know, Locutus is his screen name.)

Part of what comes with the beginner’s mind experience for me is some anxiety and fear that comes with facing new situations. I’ve never traveled with a small child before and all the ‘what if’s’ are continually racing through my mind. My mantra is ‘do not borrow tomorrow’s sorrow’ as a reminder that I cannot control or predict what will happen.

It helps that we’re keeping out travel routine as close to normal as possible. So, we’re still flying carry-on only! And we’re keeping our schedule flexible and open. So while we do have a list of things we want to do, a reservation in a hotel for our first night, and a plan to watch as much sumo as possible, we are free to be as flexible as possible. Which I think will work well when traveling with Locutus. If he’s got a major cranky day, we don’t have to get on a long train ride where he’ll be more confined (except for the last days where we will need to get back to the airport for our flight). Instead we can play in a park or explore some city streets where his shouts and cries will simply add to the symphony of noises, and not cause (as much) irritation to others.

So keep checking back in this space (or subscribe to the blog if you are more technically advanced) for updates and stories along the way.

Dex was my dump stat

Warning: If the stories of other people sustaining non-serious, but slightly cringe-worthy injuries bothers you, please stop reading here!

It started out just a day or so in to the trip. Not sure exactly what I did, but best I can figure, I strained an outer tendon of my left ankle. Never happened to me before in my entire life. But boy it hurt. Especially with all the walking we were doing. And, of course it happened before our skiing day in Hokkaido! For those to have never experienced this before, it’s like a burning and pinching sensation every time you have to move that tendon. Which, when you’re walking everywhere, is a lot. I had big boots and after some experimentation, found that the most comfortable solution was to undo them and loosen the top portion as much as was possible. But, there was still a fair bit of limping. I also bought ‘leg cooling sheets’ from a convenience store that helped to relax the area a bit, but caused the skin in the area to burn because my boots had chaffed the skin a bit. But, we moderated our walking level a bit and my ankle is now feeling just fine. We did briefly consider buying different shoes that wouldn’t press against the area with every step, but weren’t able to find any appropriate ones in an acceptable price range. And, it turns out that a ski boot tightens perfectly on the foot below the tendon and on the muscle above it, so walking/skiing in ski equipment turned out to be MORE comfortable than just plain walking was.
Then, I dropped a ceramic anime character mug on my right foot. Luckily, after some therapeutic exclamations, hopping, and rubbing, it turned out that neither the foot nor the mug was worse for wear.
Not sure if it was starting out with such a persistent annoying injury that just brought the rest of them to the forefront, but the next three weeks involved a disproportionate amount of exclamations as the result of minor injuries.
It got me kind of paranoid. So I started noticing a lot of little things. Which resulted in me almost always seeing those little steps that cities invariably have. You know the ones. They aren’t very big so they kind of just blend in with the rest of the street. If you half-step on one it can easily lead to a twisted ankle or falling over and getting some bruises and scrapes. If you’re lucky, your stomach just drops a bit or you bite your tongue with the sudden change of elevation. Well, as I said I have been seeing them, but Lance hasn’t. And I haven’t been seeing them soon enough to give any kind of useful early warning to him. Miraculously enough, the worst thing he’s suffered from is a less than graceful stumble and hop as he kept walking on unscathed.
Now that we’re on our last night in Japan, I thought we would be free and clear from further injury. We’re both feeling a little sad to be leaving and returning home again, so I guess I subconsciously decided to leave part of myself here. A section of skin, about the size of a pea volunteered this evening. The skin started out on the third toe of my left foot, but when I stepped too far forward and then pulled the door open right over top of it, the skin mostly separated from the toe. After some inspection and consideration (and some colourful exclamations) I decided to completely separate said piece of skin and leave it behind. I’ve mostly stopped the bleeding. (Incidentally, do you know how hard it is to try to balance on one foot without using the aid of your toes? Just sayin’!)

Hotel Superlatives

For some odd, inexplicable reason, I started a list of the hotels we stayed at and began assigning a superlative description to each of them. I think it adds a little flavour to an otherwise incredibly similar set of hotel stays. Since we’re now in our final hotel of the trip, I thought I’d share the list with you.

  1. Hotel Sky Court – Kawasaki
    Most first hotel!
    Lance assures me it was chosen for its proximity to Anato-no-Warehouse arcade and not because it was in the ‘red light’ district of town.
  2. Hotel Dormy Inn – Otaru
    Best hotel robe!
    Most, if not all, hotels in Japan will have a robe available for their guests. In most cases, it’s a fairly cheap Japanese style ‘summer robe’ called a Yukata. In some of the other hotels we’ve stayed at, they have chosen a slightly different style. The Dormy Inn in Otaru was the only we stayed at to have a top and bottom to put on. Not sure if it was just because of how new the hotel was, but they were super soft and cottony and more like traditional pyjamas.
  3. Hotel Piano – Kiroro
    Biggest room!
    It was like having a small suite to ourselves. I guess they figure people who ski don’t really travel light. We picked this hotel at the ski resort because it had more restaurants than the other one and because it’s name was cooler than ‘Mountain Hotel.’
  4. Ascent Inn – Sapporo
    Most cacophonous toilet flush!
    It was very noisy. And it had only one flush option, instead of having the normal ‘big flush’ and ‘little flush’ options that most other hotel toilets have.
  5. Hearton Inn – Osaka
    Most familiar!
    Most offending soap!
    This is one of the hotels we stayed at the last time we went to Japan. It was kind of nice knowing exactly where it would be and how to get there! It also gets the superlative of most offending soap because I got sprayed with soap one day, just before we were going to head out. The nozzle had gotten clogged with dry soap and I was going to wash my hands but instead of getting creamy white soap pumped into my hand it shot across the sink and all over my dark grey pants making an unsightly mark that wasn’t going to be rinsed off quickly. So, I had to change into my other pants, which were luckily clean. All things considered, we did fairly well since the only ‘stain’ our clothes got was caused by soap.
  6. Super Hotel Lohas – Nara
    Darkest room!
    Weakest shower!
    Hardest mattress! (tie)
    The room had blackout blinds which made it completely dark, even during daylight. The water pressure was also pretty low. But it was still a really convenient hotel since it was right by the train station. It was also pretty new and so it ties for another superlative ‘Hardest Mattress!’ The tie for this is shared with the other Super Hotel we stayed at. Both were new and I guess they decided to purchase the hardest mattresses they could find. We actually pulled out the extra blankets and slept on top of the duvet just to get some extra padding under us. At one point, I was so incredulous that it was an actual mattress and not a wooden plank or stack of bricks that we were sleeping on, that I pulled up the sheets to confirm the existence of a mattress.
  7. Hotel Dormy Inn – Nagoya
    Most Meh!
    Biggest desk chair!
    Add this to the list of disappointments about Nagoya. We stayed here hoping for another great Dormy Inn experience but everything was rather mediocre. The only thing that did stand out was the desk chair, which was huge relative to the room. Couldn’t really turn without bumping in to the things and the arms were so large that the chair had to be lowered so that you could reasonably pull it in to the desk.
  8. Hearton Inn – Osaka
    see above
  9. Super Hotel Lohas – Kyoto
    Most difficult to find!
    Hardest mattress! (tie)
    Partly because the two streets listed, aren’t the actual streets that it’s on. But, once we had an actual map, it was much easier. We walked within a block, couldn’t find it, trekked all the way back to the train station where the Welcome Inn centre is and got them to book it for us and give us a map with instructions. It was very cute to hear the woman at the Welcome Inn centre list the attributes of the hotel. As she put it, “it is a new hotel here in Kyoto: it has a natural hot spring; we don’t really know how.” They were trying to be ‘green’ so they gave free bottles of water to guests who declined room cleaning services while they were there. But, then all the women got 5 free gifts of little sample beauty products for each day that they stayed there, the packaging of which kind of defeating the attempt to be more ‘green.’
  10. Kikunoyu – Matsumoto
    Best onsen ryokan!
    Ok, so it was the only traditional onsen ryokan we stayed at, but still! The baths were very nice and since we were the only guests there the first night, they opened the bigger one for us as a ‘family bath.’ Then we even got little gifts when we checked out (which made me feel incredibly guilty for not giving them a gift in return). We also ordered a traditional Japanese dinner there which was served in our room. As Lance mentioned, the sashimi was very fresh and I still can’t believe I actually ate that much seafood!
  11. Touganeya Hotel – Tokyo
    Most last hotel!
    It was a little tricky to find, but once we able to properly orient ourselves with the various landmarks listed on the map, it became a lot easier. I was just relieved and surprised that they let us check in early, since most places are pretty sticky about the 3:00 pm check-in time. We were going to try to stay in the same hotel that we stayed in last time, but it was completely booked. In fact, it took quite some effort for us to find a hotel that was not booked for the nights we were going to be here. So, when the vacancy here came up, we weren’t about to start getting picky about it.